Cz-cz-czech It Out

Prague, 26 March

Today we set off with the best of intentions to meet Jo and Fran in Prague, but the God of Train Schedules seemed to want to prevent us. Firstly, the night train to Prague was non-existent, and then the early morning train as well. Finally, we got onto a supposedly non-stop ride but it got delayed due to bad weather (it's been snowing since Monday) and we had to make a mad dash to change trains in Plzen, Czech Republic, where we had been sitting in our compartment completely unaware that everyone else was filing off. Thankfully, the conductor screeched at us to get off, so we realized what to do.

Also thankfully, on the train Jean and I met Alex, a friendly recent grad from Cleveland, so there were three of us to figure out the train situation and then the Prague metro. Alex was in another hostel but once we got settled in we met up again for a great cheap dinner down the street. We had Pilsner Urquell, a lovely Czech beer...just the thing after such a stressful day! ;). Along with Czech goulash, it was an amazing dinner. We're meeting up with Alex again tomorrow at the Franz Kafka Museum but then it's off to Krakow at night!


Prague is quite modern, as our newly-renovated hostel can attest. It has the same battered Eastern European architecture as other cities, but a cosmopolitan vibe that's in step with cities like Berlin.

Oh yeah, and after our 7-hour train ride, we discovered our hostel had no running water. The prospect of no shower until Krakow is utterly depressing, despite the apologies/friendliness of the hostel staff... but Prague is too lovely to focus on the negative!! :)

27 March

We had a slightly fitful sleep last night--well, more me, I guess; Jean slept pretty well in our nice, bright 5-person room. As we went to bed, Jo and Fran still hadn't gotten back and they had no keys to get in after reception closed at 10 pm. I meant to stay up, but actually fell asleep with the lights on and still wearing my glasses ;). I was a total mom waiting up for my rebellious teenagers.

So when we woke up early at 6:30 and they weren't there, we phoned them from a payphone and found out they had stayed at another hostel after being locked out. They replayed the moment of panic when they stood outside the locked door at 1 am and realized their situation. Once we had safely met up that night, the situation was again discussed at length ;).

For the day though, Jean and I explored Prague's major highlights in a day-long hike across the city. We had planned to meet Alex at the Kafka Museum later on, but we randomly ran into him near Prague Castle so we saw that together in the morning.


The castle is imposing, looming over the city from its perch on the east bank of the Vltava River. I loved its interior: the intricate design of the ceiling beams are so simple and so unique! The Old Town (Stare Miasto) is picturesque, with embassies presiding side-by-side with tacky souvenir shops on steep, sloping streets. That's Prague, really-- well-preserved historical sites mixed with touristy kitsch. It also wins the prize for Most Touristed Location Visited This Year: the castle and St. Charles' Bridge were swarming with gawking tourists and high school groups. We're a bit spoiled by our mostly off-season travels, I guess, but it still lessens the impact when you have to navigate silly adolescents as well as confusing street names.

The Kafka Museum was a nice surprise. It's a beautifully well-done multimedia exhibition on Kafka, his work, and his times. I'd never read anything of his, but I bought Metamorphosis, so we'll see how it goes!


I'm disappointed I can't effuse about Prague (or the Golden City, as it's also known) but due to transport problems, I don't think I saw enough. It's definitely worth another visit, though, I can say that for sure.

We're currently on the night train to Krakow (a great name for a song, right?!) and although not the shadiest train ride we've ever taken, it comes close! lol.. though we're lucky to have gotten two girls from Leeds Uni, of all places, in our compartment. 'Tis a small world; but it doesn't feel like it when you're travelling by train at night :).